DAY 8 (6/18/05): Ticonderoga to
Newcomb, NY 59.3 mi.  I had planned on taking a rest day today and
visiting Fort Ticonderoga, but when I awoke to the sound of more rain
drumming on the roof of my tent, I decided to flee.  I think my tent
contained at least two pounds of water when I put it on the bike and
headed west.  The route today was mostly along state and county roads that
were devoid of houses and services.  One of the roads, which is now
paralleled by a stretch of interstate, had clearly had the life sucked out
of it by the highway.  There were at least a half-dozen boarded-up old
motels and restaurants spread over 10 mi, the only thing that had survived
was an incredibly tacky and depressing Adirondack tourist outpost and
close-out shoppe where you could buy all manner of cheap plastic trinkets
and stale candy.  This somewhat sad stretch of road was compensated for by
the fact that it lead me to the Adirondacks, which are spectacularly
beautiful--lots and lots of totally untouched rolling green mountains and
clear blue mountain lakes.  And no rain!!  The sheer joy of being dry
again may have colored my first impression of this area, but I love it.  I
am camped tonight at Harris Lake, about 3 feet from the water and it sure
is beautiful!

DAY 9 (6/19/05):  Newcomb to Inlet, NY 62.9 mi.  A truly spectacular day
of riding, both scenery-wise and weather-wise (at last).  This is the
first time I've seen the sun for a full day since Maine.  More amazing
Adirondack views all around.  The riding is generally 10 or 15 mi of
riding on a county road, seeing maybe a dozen cars in that time, a few ups
and downs, and then rolling into a little tourist town for an icecream or
what have you.  This part of the Adirondacks lacks the depressed air of
yesterday.  Inlet, where I'm camping, just feet from a mountain lake, is a
great little place with a nice grocery (with good fresh produce, not to be
taken for granted) and a bike shop where I stopped to chat with the bike
people.  They all really liked Dagny...

DAY 10 (6/20/05): Inlet to North Osceola, NY 76.4 mi.  Today I left the
Adirondacks behind, which is sad but necessary, I suppose.  The route
flattened out quite a bit as I left the mountains, and the general
demeanor of the land changed as well.  Whereas in the Adirondacks most of
the land is public, in this region it feels like every tenth tree has a
“Posted: No Trespassing” sign on it.  It's still reasonably pretty but
nearly as nice as yesterday, and the rural depressed feel is back.  I am
camped tonight in a rather odd location.  The town of North Osceola
(suburb of the 'booming' town of Osceola) contains two main enterprises. 
The first of these is the Cedar Pines bar/restaurant/motel/trailer
park/campground, where I am staying, and the second is the North American
Fiddlers Hall of Fame.  Go figure.  Sadly, the former is a little creepy
and the latter is closed, so I think it is for the best that my stay here
is brief.

DAY 11: North Osceola to Fair Haven, NY 74.2 mi.  I got up very early this
morning and on a tip from the host at this most unlikely campground, I
took a very nice shortcut that basically consisted of zooming at high
velocity down hill for 5 miles while saving me almost 10mi as compared to
going around the long way.  Because of this, I had time to make a much,
much needed laundry stop in Pulaski.  All of my gear has been somewhere
between damp and wet for nearly a week, so you can just imagine how good
it smells.  After laundry, I made a bee line for Lake Ontario, stopping
just briefly at a cafe for sustenance and to poach electricity to charge
the Blackberry.  I am now at Fair Haven state park, right on the shore of
Lake Ontario, which is HUGE!  My campsite is up on a bluff overlooking the
lake, the water goes all the way to the horizon.  It feels like I've
really accomplished something, being here.  There are no great lakes in
New England.

DAY 12 (6/22/05): Fair Haven, NY.  Today I took a rest day to enjoy the
sun and surf here in Fair Haven.  I rolled down into town, went out for
french toast, got a new hat, wrote post cards, read my book, ate a lot,
map-gazed, etc.  Stuck my feet in the lake.  The water is actually quite
warm but it was so windy today that I didn't feel like swimming.  Now I'm
sitting in my tent watching the sun go down over the lake.  This is a
really terrific spot if you're ever in the area.  I'll be sad to leave it
tomorrow but the Erie Canal calls...