DAY 97 (9/15/05): Gold Beach, OR to Crecent City, CA
60.9 mi.  After a good night's rest, Tobias seems to
have fully recovered from his bad experience with the
glass of cold water.  Although we did see the sun at
our campsite this morning, as soon as we left it and
returned to the coast, we were once again surrounded
by fog.  The air was quite chilly, with the
temperature hovering in the low 50's all day.  We rode
up and down some steep hills and passed a bunch of
marked ocean vista points where we couldn't even see
the water.  We also crossed the highest bridge in
Oregon, which, at 345 ft above the ground, spans a
deep gorge carved by a creek.  We could almost see the
bottom through the fog in some parts.  After the
bridge, we stopped at Letty's all-you-can-eat
Chinese/American buffet in Brookings and got our
money's worth of medium-grade food.  Their home-made
onion rings were quite good, I have to say.  After
lunch, we finally crossed the border into Caifornia,
the very last state line I will cross on this tour. 
After the border, the fog lifted almost immediately
and we actually had some sun for a few hours.  During
this period, we passed through the town of Smith River
(the Easter Lilly Capitol of the World).  We then set
up camp at a nice KOA where the tent sites were
surrounded by redwoods, a fitting location for our
first night in northern CA.

DAY 98 (9/16/05): Crescent City to Klamath, CA 30.8
mi.  This morning, we awoke to (surprise, surprise)
grey skies.  As we were eating breakfast, occassional
drops of rain fell into our cereal.  Because of this,
I decided to take a break from breakfast and take down
my tent and load up the bike   That turned out to be a
wise decision, because about 5 minutes later the skies
really opened.  Fortunately, there was a little
sheltered area near the restrooms with a picnic table,
so Dagny and I hung out there while Tobias made
several high-speed trips back and forth to our
campsite to retrieve his stuff.  We remained at the
picnic bench for almost two hours while the rain
continued to fall unabated.  Finally, the rain let up
and we were able to ride into downtown Crescent City. 
On the way, Tobias got a flat tire from a piece of
glass on the road (there is an awful lot of broken
glass on the roads around here, for some reason).  We
patched the tire uneventfully, although the whole
experience convinced me that Mr. Tuffy strips are
totally worth the added rotational weight in the
wheels--fixing a flat on a tour is no fun at all and
totally breaks any kind of rhythm that you had going. 
Anyhow, we proceeded through Crescent City and onto
the Crescent City hills.  The first pitch was a
relatively steep 800 ft climb, and then a few rollers
of a few hundred feet each up at the top.  The descent
off of the top was pretty intense, being very steep
with no shoulder to speak of.  Instead of a shoulder,
there was either a steep embankment or a cliff,
neither of which offers much opportunity to escape
from logging trucks. We made it through, though, and
were rewarded with some very nice views of the Pacific
off the southern side of the hill, which was
considerably less foggy than the northern side.  We
thought about getting a motel room for the night but
in the end decided against it because the motels were
all a little bit too expensive and it wasn't actively
raining at the time.  We ended up regretting that
decision, however, because no sooner had we pitched
the tents in Klamath, the skies opened again with the
same intensity as this morning.  Fortunately, the
campground had a nice "activities building" that
featuring a gas fireplace, so Tobias and I spent a
good portion of the evening there, trying to stay warm
and dry.

DAY 99 (9/17/05): Klamath to McKinleyville, CA 56.1
mi.  This morning we packed up our cold, wet gear and
headed off towards the famous CA redwood forests.  We
rode a beautiful scenic parkway through a redwood
forest.  I got a little bit ahead of Tobias on a hill
and got off the road to wait for him in an unoccupied
parking area near a trailhead.  As I was standing
there, enjoying the majestic scenery, a very loud
Harley pulled up next to me.  And then another.  And
then another, and another, until there were about 20
men in leather chaps astride motorcycles parked all
around me.  They were very friendly and happy to meet
a "real biker."  After we chatted for a bit, I took
some group photos for them.  I really regret not
taking one with my own camera just for fun, they were
quite a sight.  After Tobias caught up, we continued
downhill on a winding road through the forest,
stopping now and again to marvel at the size of the
trees (in some cases, 20 ft in diameter and 350 ft
high!).  After returning to the coast, we rode some
beautiful secondary roads through the tiny tourist
town of Trinidad, where we could hear sea lions
barking from rock outcroppings offshore.  As we rode
along, we practiced barking like sea lions, too.  This
may make some of you think that I have been on the
road for too long, but I swear it's fun and you should
try it next time you're in the shower.  In any event,
since all of our gear was wet, we treated ourselves to
a room at Motel 6, which was incredibly warm and

DAY 100 (9/18/05): McKinleyvill to Redcrest, CA 55.4
mi.  This morning we rode through the old Victorian
town of Eureka, CA, and spent an hour or so walking
around the old downtown area, which still has a lot of
colorful Victorian-style storefronts.  We then turned
inland a bit and rode on some gorgeous, if quite
rough, country roads through the Eel River valley.  It
was some of the flattest riding we've done so far, and
certainly the sunniest we've done in recent days. 
There were lots of dairy farms in the valley, and many
of them had beautiful, run-down Victorian farmhouses
as well.  After riding through the valley we picked up
the Avenue of the Giants, a 32 mi stretch of road that
runs through some of the most spectacular old-growth
redwood forests around.  We rode about half of it
today, to the tiny town of Redcrest, where we stayed
at a nice little campground across the street from a
country store.