Day 27 (7/7/05): Brevort to Manisitique, MI 83.3 mi. I rode all day today on US-2. It's a relatively busy road but the shoulder is very wide and the traffic didn't bother me. The surrounding scenery is beautiful, all Hiawatha National Forest. There are lots and lots of signs here advertising smoked fish and pasties. Due to my vegetarian nature I didn't try either but if you are ever up here you might want to, it seems to be popular. One place where I stopped actually had a bunch of operating smoking sheds right next to the store. I did have a nice breakfast along the way at the Country Girl Cafe, whose name appealed to me. I stopped briefly in Manistique to buy food and then headed over to Indian Lake state park, just to the northwest of the city. It's a very nice spot and I was tempted to go swimming until I saw all the signs warning about "swimmer's itch" which might be contracted by swimming in the lake. I also learned that Pizza Hut will deliver right to your campsite. I didn't take advantage of that service, but it's good to know that it's out there... DAY 28 (7/8/05): Manistique to Hardwood, MI 97.3mi. So far in this trip, milestones seem to come in pairs, and today I had another two milestones roll by: I crossed the 2000th mile of my journey and entered the Central timezone. The road this morning was not great, there was a bunch of construction on US-2 that involved tearing up the shoulder, and the road also got much busier. Again, the shoulder was wide and I didn't feel too threatened but the noise got to me more than yesterday. I had initially planned on stopping in Escanaba, but I didn't really like it there and decided to bite the bullet and push on for a long day. In the end it was well worth it: I camped at a county park with only five campsites on a lovely little lake. When I pulled in two little girls on their pink two-wheelers rolled into my campsite and were full of questions, the first of which was, "where's your truck?" The younger one was really impressed by the bike, and her sister, who at the age of 9 or so was a very worldly young lady, explained to the younger girl, "oh, that's the kind of bike where when you pedal backwards, nothing happens." DAY 29 (7/9/05): Hardwood, MI to Nelma, WI 77.7 mi. At long, long last, I left the state of Michigan behind today. My last day of cruising through the UP was very pleasant, almost completely unpopulated forest except for the town of Crystal Falls, where I once again stopped to do laundry and read Harper's Bazaar with the other ladies at the laundromat. I crossed the Brule River into Wisconsin, amused the people who lived along the river by struggling to find the optimum position for Dagny in the obligatory state sign photo, and camped about 100yds into Wisconsin at another USFS campground. I thought about going across the street to the "Full Throttle" for a celebratory beer, but found that I could here the music from there just fine at my campsite and that there was no need to get all smokey. So, I had a nice cold bottle of well water at my campsite instead. After all, I wouldn't have wanted to leave Dagny out of the celebration! DAY 30: Nelma to Mercer, WI 83.1 mi. Today was my first full day in Wisconsin, and it was spectacular. I spent all of it cruising back roads through more national forest (referred to collectively as "the North Woods," this being the northern portion of the state). I immediately noticed several differences between MI and WI. First, in MI the roads are absolutely as straight as possible, whereas here they are twisty, windy, and hilly. Second, in Michigan all the roads have numbers (I even rode something called 13.75 rd). In WI, the county roads all have letters. I've ridden things like K, F, FF, and G. Third, I have never seen more dead porcupines by the side of the road than I did while in the UP. Here, thankfully, there are no dead porcupines. Unfortunately, here there are an abundance of biting flies. Through some experimentation, I have found that flies can only travel at around 11mph, which is a great incentive to keep one's cruising speed up. On the hills, though, they circle around your head just waiting for an opportunity to land on you and bite. Sadly, spandex does not deter them...